SHOWCASE 8

The jewellery presented in this showcase is made by Russian and foreign makers. They are colourful accessories to the Russian medieval male and female costume. The jewellery is made of precious metals, gemstones and pearls.

The museum's collection contains clasps, plaques with precious stones and buttons. Buttons were fixed on women's and men's clothing, and they served more than one generation in the family. From old worn-out garments, they were transferred to new ones. Gold plaques made by Turkish jewellers, decorated with diamonds, emeralds and rubies, which had no direct analogies in the jewellery art of other countries, represented a special kind of decoration for a Russian costume. They were produced in various sizes and the fanciest shapes — in the form of tulip and clove flowers, pomegranate fruits, various leaves and buds, multi-beam stars. Plaques usually got openwork edges, which were folded into a wide range of floral patterns during installation. Sometimes openwork edges were decorated with a rectangular frame, which was covered with the finest enamel, as well as niello or carved pattern. Decorated on the facing side with precious stones and multicoloured enamel, on the backside they were often worked out in the technique of incised carving with floral pattern in a cuspidate oval lattice — a familiar ornament of Turkish fabrics. Plaques were often used to decorate icons or Gospel covers as well. Plaques, clasps and buttons that had gone out of use were reworked and renewed.

Women's jewellery — earrings, ryasny (ornamental head pendant), and rings differed in variety and elegance. They were made of precious materials, decorated with filigree and enamel. They were both brought from Europe and made in Moscow. Jewellery shapes and décor were similar to those of wealthy and ordinary citizens. The only difference was that the jewellery for wealthy women was made of gold, silver and precious stones, while those for simple women were made after the same patterns, but from cheap materials.

Jewellery was stored in caskets and small boxes of various shapes. Small boxes in the form of caskets were used to keep cosmetic potions, ointments, blushes and powder.